In a Different Time Zone

New private luxury island Bawe opens for business

By Andrea Tapper

The first of 19 private islands recently given away by the government, luxurious Bawe, has opened to guests. From Italian country style cooking to your own water villa on stilts – nothing is amiss in paradise. As long as you are prepared to part with at least 2,000 dollars. Per night.

Tanzania’s president “Mama Samia” has no heart for luxury wasted. She made it pretty clear recently: Whoever is not developing his or her choice of the 19 or so private islands spectacularly auctioned off three years ago, will be fined or even loose the deal. She gave investors three months to start. Only  three island owners did not need reminding: the Italian family owning Bawe Island and Prison Island, well known for tortoise excursions. And the Czech hoteliers actively developing the Pamunda twin islands of six hectares south-west of Fumba (THE FUMBA TIMES reported).

But nobody moved as fast as Bawe. The moment we arrive in the lush green lobby boasting two enticing de-luxe boutiques we feel like in another world. Definitely we are in another time zone: “Put your watches one hour ahead”, a very attentive employee alerts us and explains: “We do that to enjoy a later equatorial sunset. Ladies don’t wish to leave the pool so early and need time to get dressed-up for dinner.” How thoughtful!

The boat trip from Stone Town to the private island took us only about 15 minutes, still too much for his esteemed guests, pledges general manager Mehdi Serrour, 66, who has come to greet us personally: “We have applied for a helicopter license. Guests in our price range request that comfort.” Serrour knows the real luxuries in life. Simplicity is one. Simply fantastic is Bawe’s beach trattoria “Sinfonia”, seemingly coming straight out of an Italian picture book. A blue counter, fresh veggies, gelato. Chef Giaccomo Bongiovani serves ever-so light ravioli, almost transparent slices of pizza and a perfectly cooled prosecco. The silhouette of Stone Town is simmering in a heat haze.

Bawe, flat like a pancake and 30 hectares big, was developed in less than two years. It takes 45 minutes to walk once around the island. But who would do that in the heat? Every guest gets a bicycle to explore. “We had more than 1,000 construction workers on the ground”, Serrour says. 70 exclusive villas, all with private pools and butler service, stretch out to different sides of the island.

Most exceptional are surely the eight lagoon suites on eight-metre stilts, each 170 square meters big, with thatched roofs – creating a perfect Maldives feeling. The only disadvantage: Guests cannot climb down and immediately access the sea, “too dangerous”, says the manager. Solar panels, a desalination plant, three restaurants, bars, great diving and water sport possibilities, a padel court, a gym, babysitting on request – Bawe has it all, but most importantly, says the manager “it’s beach-boy-free”.

Privacy is another luxury of the affluent. But privacy can sometimes border boredom: a beach-club and a large common infinity pool work  against that here. “Common”, of course, is the wrong word: fluffy macramé sun chairs and umbrellas are reserved for guests only. Surprising: the open sea around the island has a strong current, but apparently no tides.

Sunrise villas of 200 sqm face east, sunset suits (240sqm) west, but the real space wonder is the Sultan Palace, an ultra-modern, two-storey villa on 500sqm accomodating up to nine guests. Sofas by Etro, a bathroom as big as a dance hall: holidaying like the sultans starts at $8,000 per night. “Our Christmas guests here spent $80,000 in five days”, Serrour dryly recounts.

Bawe is the most expensive holiday place in Zanzibar today. First guests hailed from Dubai and France, Germany and Poland; the upper-luxury segment never fails to come, the manager says. The Cocoon Collection invested $50 million into Bawe.  It is a new brand of the well-known Azzola family in the Indian Ocean. Their first resort was created in 1980 by Enzo and Maria Rosaria in Sri Lanka, six hotels in Zanzibar and the Maldives by Attilio, Alessandro and Andrea followed. Maria Rosaria also owns the travel agency Azamar and is considered one of the main female entrepreneurs in the Italian tourism industry.

Successfully running the Gold Hotel in Zanzibar and three resorts in the Maldives, the family must be doing something right!

The gardens and greenery in Bawe still need development, and an organic farm is planned. What is Bawe’s promise? “Ultimate privacy only 15 minutes in front of Stone Town and no more than an hour’s flight away from safari elephants”, says manager Serrour. Blend that with top contemporary design, informal hospitality and gourmet cuisine – and you never want to leave.

Information and booking: www.baweisland.com