"ZANZIBAR IS SO SUBLIME"

The son of Femi Kuti and grandson of Fela Kuti headlined one of the best Busara festivals ever

By Andrea Tapper 

He flew into Zanzibar, capturing the hearts of music fans from all over. Afrobeat musician Mádé Kuti, 28, and his wife Inedoye, 25, made time for an exclusive interview with THE FUMBA TIMES before diving into their honeymoon on the island.

The sound check at the Old Fort was done when we settled into a climatised quiet lounge at the Serena Hotel in Stone Town. The performance at Zanzibar’s Busara Festival was one of the first big international solo shows of Mádé Kuti and his 12-piece band, The Movement. The young heir of the Kuti dynasty plays eight instruments. Both looking splendid, Mádé and his newly-wed wife Inedoye (Nigerian for “my desire”) were ready to discuss “everything”.  At the same time easy-going and reflective, charismatic and humble,  the musician talked frankly for over an hour.

On Zanzibar:

“I was very impressed by the island from the beginning. The airport looks better than some in Nigeria. When we landed, everything  was quiet, peaceful, natural and so sublime. Everything here just screams holiday! 

We came to perform at Sauti za Busara festival and to spend a four-day-honeymoon at Kizikula resort. I promised my wife to leave my hands off my instruments and composing.”

On “Andco”: 

“Wondering what “Andco” is? Just look at our photos. It’s a Nigerian expression for partnerlook, man and woman dressing up in the same prints or at least the same colours. Easy to spot us as a couple then!”

On life in Lagos:

“It has completely changed since the 70s. My grandfather was an outcast, a rebel, always in the headlines and negatively portrayed by the state media. A lot of it was misinterpretation. He was arrested, his first commune “The Shrine” burnt down by the military, in the course of which his mother died. It was a ghastly time; ordinary people feared to come to the Shrine. 2012 it was converted into the “Kalakuta Republic Museum”, named after the free state Fela had founded in protest. My father Femi opened the “New Africa Shrine” in Lagos where we used to live in a penthouse. Some of the family still lives a communal life today. The new shrine has a restaurant, a concert hall, a video space. Lots of tourists visit it. The Kutis have finally become respectable. As much as we are still controversial, the authorities don’t mess with us any more. Our international recognition protects us. We pay our taxes.” 

On politics:

“Of course I am interested in politics. How could it be otherwise coming from the Kuti family! But I am not a political activist in the sense my grandfather was. Even my father Femi, now 61 years old, is a much more quiet and civil person than Fela ever was and not as flamboyant as him. He is Fela Kuti’s oldest son and like my uncle Seun, 41, who is Fela Kuti’s youngest son, a well-known performer. My father taught me to be self-critical, to look within. I am a softer Kuti - but my music is still aggressive!” 

On family: 

“Other than what people think, my grandfather had many wives - not sure if 27 or 28 – but only a few kids, exactly seven. I know the whole extended family, of course. We are 13 grandchildren. I was two years old when my grandfather died. I don’t remember him but I know many stories about him. If you ask me if I’d want several wives like him, I definitely say no. Why? I have witnessed where it leads to - a lot of quarrelling! I want a nuclear family with maximum three children. I’d want to take my family to the movies without having to charter a bus!”

On music: 

“Afrobeat is still my music. It’s wild and loud and beautiful. I would like to establish it even more as a classical genre. I studied from 2011-2018 at the same conservatoire, the Trinity Laban in London, as my grandfather did. When you ask me for my musical idols, spontaneously I’d say Chopin and the Arctic Monkeys, classic and new. I’ve been on stage with my father since I was a kid, playing famous gigs in Europe and the US. My biggest wish is a reunion tour with my father Femi, my uncle Seun and myself.”

MANHATTAN MEETS FUMBA

Manhattan is 14.6 kilometres long and 3.5 km wide. Fumba is 14.3 kilometres long and 3.6 km wide. Otherwise, the two peninsulas couldn’t be more different, of course. Glitzy Manhattan, one of the commercial and cultural centres of the world, full of skyscrapers, banks, offices, residential skyscrapers. Fumba in Zanzibar, still green and rural, showing only nascent signs of urban development. 

The comparison, however, demonstrates what growth could be imaginable.  Manhattan was a sparsely inhabited territory of marshes and swamps in 1609, it now houses 28,000 people per km2. Zanzibar has 768 residents per km2. This may sound few, but it is already three times the population density of Majorca, a tourism island in Spain, for example. Zanzibar (with Tanzania) has one of the highest population growths in the world.

Would we want Fumba to look like Manhattan? “Maybe more African”, answers Fumba Town developer Sebastian Dietzold, “but a higher density of buildings must be achieved, to adequately house a growing population.“  Another urban planning expert, Canadian Kurtis Lockhart, is more radical. Should Zanzibar become like New York? “Absolutely”, Lockhart replies, “the central park in Manhattan is one of my favourite places in the world.”

Lockhart’s mission is the global development of new cities to lift people out of poverty (see his guest comment on the left). 

Currently, Zanzibar City is accommodating new residents by simply sprawling outward. This type of urbanisation has not helped the island to prosper; unemployment of youth has risen to 20 per cent. Fumba is earmarked as a free economic zone to attract foreign investment.

  A joint proposal for Fumba‘s development by the Charter Cities Institute and developer CPS says: “Building new cities in Zanzibar will require close cooperation between public and private actors”. The simple reason: African countries are urbanising at much lower income levels than other regions historically and have not enough tax income to build infrastructure. Planned cities “will generate jobs and introduce new growth sectors”, the proposal argues. 

  Manhattan thrived by clever planning: with high density building, good coordination of land stakeholders and a comprehensive infrastructure plan. Comparing the two maps, Fumba Uptown would be like a Lower Manhattan, Fumba Town the Upper West Side.  

And Zanzibar‘s nature, the palm trees and beaches? Who would swap a tropical paradise for a concrete jungle? “It’s not a trade-off between urban environment and nature” says Lockhart. “Fumba Town with its amazing integration of permaculture shows how an island city can stay green and still grow.”  Manhattan light – will that be an option for Zanzibar, the island off the east coast of Africa?

HAS THE WEATHER GONE CRAZY?

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW Incredible heat, endless rains – has the weather gone crazy? THE FUMBA TIMES editor-in-chief Andrea Tapper asked a man who knows a lot about the climate in Zanzibar: Hassan Khatib Ame, 44, head meteorologist at the international airport.

THE FUMBA TIMES: Am I wrong, or has it been even hotter and more humid in the last weeks and months than usual?

Meteorologist Hassan K. Ame: You are not wrong. Zanzibar is getting warmer and we are feeling it. It’s the result of climate change. The consequences are measurable, also here in Zanzibar.

What is your forecast for this rainy season? 

Masika, as the rains are called, is expected to be normal to above normal, and starting early.

The weather app on my phone predicted a whole week of 34-35 degree Celsius at the end of February. For a human being, this is almost fever temperature.

Don’t rely only on your weather app! We have robust scientific data indicating the same. In January and February, Zanzibar often had 32-34 degree Celsius at noon with peaks of up to 37°. 

Too hot, indeed! 

The curve is going up. 

Local scientists have warned about “an existence of climate shift in Zanzibar since 2005” in a study published last year. Maximum temperatures have risen up to 1.6%, minimum temperatures up to 7.1% in Unguja and Pemba in that period, the study says.

According to our data at the airport the average yearly temperature has risen by about 0.5 degree Celsius in total since 2005. A drastic change happened in 2016, when the curve jumped up by three degrees.

A warming-up by less than one degree in almost 20 years seems not much.

This assumption is wrong. The trend in Zanzibar mirrors exactly the trend in global warming. The current warming by about 0.2° Celsius per decade is happening at a rate not seen in the past 10,000 years. Therefore, all climate conferences have one goal: to keep global warming under a two-degree rise, which is considered the critical threshold above which dangerous effects for humans and the earth will occur.

What effects do we see in Zanzibar already?

Increase in extreme weather, such as heavy rains. Storms. Contamination of groundwater by salt water in low areas. All this has effects on agriculture, on coastal erosion and ultimately on the livelihood of people. However,  compared to other regions in Africa, Zanzibar is still a safe haven. The Horn of Africa was badly affected by drought between 2020-2023. Congo and Mozambique experienced terrible flooding due to tropical cyclones. But lying close to the equator, we do not experience such cyclones in Zanzibar. Neither do we face drought here. 

 Still, the rains seem unpredictable! Last November it was raining throughout…

The weather is not unpredictable. Already in August last year we meteorologists were aware that the rains would be long and heavy and we issued a statement accordingly.

Were the recent heavy rains a result of climate change?

Yes, but not only. El Nino also played a role. El Nino is an unusual warming of the Central Pacific Ocean which can bring seasonal and nonseasonal heavy rains like last November. Another weather phenomenon causing the heavy rains is the so-called Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) when the Western Indian Ocean is warmer than the Eastern Indian Ocean. Climate change contributes to all of this.

Tell us a bit about your work at the airport.

With a team of about 30 meteorologists we provide weather services and forecasts 24/7, every 30 minutes, for the tower and every departing and arriving plane, from a small Cessna to a Boeing. We work under the Tanzania Meteorological Authority (TMA) and inform the Zanzibar Airport Authority (ZAA) who takes the decisions.

In colder countries airports sometimes shut down due to snow and ice. Has Zanzibar ever been closed due to bad weather?

Not exactly shut down. But during a strong thunder shower no flight should land or take-off. On 5 November last year the airport authorities redirected a Condor arriving from Germany to land in Dar es Salaam following our warnings. Thunderstorms can cause poor visibility, turbulence and dangerous crosswinds – too dangerous for landings and take-off.

Zanzibar is an island. The same goes probably for boats?

Yes, exactly. Our colleagues from the Zanzibar Marine Weather Service advised the Zanzibar Marine Authority to stop several fast ferries also due to heavy storms and bad weather.  When the wind is stronger than 20 knots (40 km/h), we usually do this… 

The weather seems to play with us.

We must be ready and prepared for more severe weather. Extreme weather is one of the main effects of climate change. That can reach from heavy storms to prolonged rains, but also to longer periods of heat.

What can we do against it?

Adequate measures have to be taken and are being taken, from coastal protection to building precautions, to planting trees. We must also try to lower CO2 emissions as much as possible. When you look at the consequences – it’s better to understand the weather!
More information: meteo.go.tz

CELEBRATING RAMADAN

Ramadan is a deeply festive and contemplative season for Muslims. But don’t be shy: Visitors are welcome in Zanzibar during the holiest month of the Muslim Calendar.

When is Ramadan?

This year, Ramadan (also written Ramadhan) is likely to begin on Monday, 11 March, with the sighting of the new moon. Every year Ramadan moves back 10-12 days, allowing it to fall into different seasons. It’s not easy to fast during the hottest season and demands a lot of self-control and discipline. But exactly that - voluntary self-restraint - is at the core of Ramadan. Followers abstain from any food and drinks, including water, from sunrise to sunset. In Zanzibar that is about a 12-hour fast. The end of Ramadan (likely on 11 or 12 April) is again determined by the sighting of the crescent moon and is followed by the celebration of Eid Al Fitr. Lots of presents and new dresses and clothes are bought by families – it’s a time to meet and celebrate. 

How is life during Ramadan?

Zanzibar prides itself of being a cosmopolitan island where different cultures and religions have lived side-by-side for centuries. Visitors are often warmly invited to take part in fast-breaking evening iftars and other rituals. There is an overall change in atmosphere. Worship, service, communal gathering, and spiritual development come into focus. Business is expected to slow down, but people still go to work. 

Tell me more about fast-breakingIftar buffets are a common tradition – start it with some dates and black coffee! Some hotels and restaurants in Zanzibar pull out all the stops for the fast-breaking meal, with opulent local traditional and Arabesque menus. Or just wander around Stone Town and Forodhani gardens around 8 pm and explore. Enjoy Ramadan! Ramadan Kareem!

DINNER FOR ONE

A new hospitality school in Zanzibar trains local youth for jobs in the tourist industry. We tested it. 

Does the glass stand to the right of the plate, or the left? Can VIPs register in their room instead of at the reception? What is cereal? Tumaini Kiwenge is one of five teachers at a new vocational training, the ‘Zenj Centre of excellence for tourism’ (ZCET), located within the property of a hotel. She talks about “the sequence of service” as if it’s a ballet choreography: light as a feather and yet mastered only by persistent training. In front of her: a class of a dozen students, the majority girls, listening eagerly. 

This year, 115 students have joined the boarding school, which opened in Zanzibar two years ago. It stands out for two aspects: courses of nine months consist of one third theory and two thirds practical training. Through a government-initiated program, the education is aimed especially at girls. Front office and housekeeping, cooking and serving – all these skills are tested in real time at the 4-star Sansi Kae Beach resort in Michamvi. One of the school founders, Talal Atturkhan from Mauritius says: “75 percent of our students are female; attitudes towards girls’ education are positively changing.” 

With more than 30 percent youth unemployment according to official labour statistics, the booming tourism industry in Zanzibar seems indeed not a bad place to make a living. But that’s not where students’ ambitions end: “Certainly something bigger than reception”, says student Shine, 20, when asked about her future plans. As we put her fellow student Rabea to the test with a dinner for one, all goes smoothly, from presenting the menu to taking orders. The fork is placed on the correct side, too. But then comes the dessert and Rabea stumbles. As she introduces a “smooth mango”, I inquire: “A mango smoothie as dessert?” It turns out it’s a mango mousse. Does it matter? Hardly. But the context is interesting: “80 percent of the food here I have never heard of before”, the apprentice admits. And how does that feel? “It’s okay”, another student says, “it’s just like learning a new language.” 

(AT) Information: zcet.org

SMART ARCHITECTURE WINS

Zanzibar is famous for historic Stone Town. But now the island’s modern architecture starts gaining international recognition, too. 

The white modern living style of Fumba Town based on green principles has won a prestigious award in Dubai recently. CPS Africa, who started the unique island development in 2015, received the ‘Residential Development 20+’ award by the African section of ‘International Property Awards’. The London-based organisation works with a jury of 90 international architects und industry experts. 

The awards celebrate outstanding achievements in various categories, including architecture, interior design and property development. The program is open to professionals worldwide. Fumba Town showcases half a dozen of different houses and apartment types for all budgets, including high-tech timber buildings. The growing sea-side suburb is embedded in permaculture, has Adobe playgrounds for kids and open-air organic restaurants. 

Sebastian Dietzold, CEO of CPS Africa, expressed his joy, stating, “Winning the African Property Award is not only a recognition for Fumba Town but the whole of Zanzibar and Tanzania. Our ambition is to shape spaces that redefine how communities live and thrive.” The company has offices in Zanzibar, Dar es Salaa and Nairobi.

The unknown side of Zanzibar

Location Most secluded in Zanzibar, The Bottom Line Feel like a VIP by the ocean

The road maybe rocky, but the destination rewards us for travelling it. Like a Fata Morgana, white modern villas suddenly become visible high above the sea, a wooden deck with neatly arranged cabana-like double sun beds leads to an endless three tier pool. And ahhhh, the ocean in turquoise perfection is nibbling at a white virgin beach. Safira Blu is probably the most secluded resort property in Zanzibar. 

From Kendwa Rocks we drove on a dust road 3.8 kilometres straight across the island to the north east coast. And here, between Nungwi and Mnemba island, at one of Zanzibar’s most undiscovered coastal stretches, you’ll find the new Safira Blu resort & villas. Tender beef and meeze It’s a private paradise with 12 modern villas, an amazing pool, Baobab trees on the beach and 1.5 kilometres of unspoiled beach front. 

Outside guests are welcome for lunch and dinner at the Drunken Monkey bar and the BluFire restaurant. There used to be day passes with access to the main pool and beach but this has been discontinued. On Sundays, however, the resort stages a brunch and treats visitors with a free round of bubbles. 

We indulged in the most delicious cuisine with bites of tender beef and octopus, roasted beetroot and grapefruit salad, sushi and mezee platters, sipping exotic drinks like Island Manhattans with Cinzano Rosso or non-alcoholic mocktails such as pineapple hibiscus. 

Service is great and the chef even came out to let us taste different menu items. Visiting here, one obviously is tempted to book the real package - a night or two, or longer - in the villas. With a private pool, butler service, a sea-view bathroom and even a powder room, the double-storey units are extremely tempting. 

Father-daughter team How did it all start? Explorer Sir Richard Francis Burton called the African shore “the sea of purest sapphire” in 1876; Safira Blu is a Swahili variation of his words and the brainchild of an extraordinary Zanzibar family. Alnoor Jinah immigrated to Canada in the 1970s where, together with his wife Shahida, he began opening hotels in quaint small towns. 

Inspired by her parents, daughter Ayesha became an interior architect and, upon their recent return to Zanzibar, the father-daughter team designed and build the unique property together.

Safira Blu Resort & Villas Villas start at $953 per night per couple. Outside guests are welcome in the restaurants. Drunken Monkey 10.30am to 10.30pm. Dinner at BluFire 6.30pm to 10.00pm. Sunday Brunch with bubbles 11:30am to 3.00pm. Ph +255 623 788 650 safirablu.com

FAKE Picture - OR NOT?

By Elias Kamau A tree house in Stone Town? Too good to be true! When we received this photo at THE FUMBA TIMES, we became highly sceptical. Here’s a guide to help you recognise fake shots – especially in your social media. 

The commonsense warning is clear: don’t believe everything your Facebook and Instagram friends throw at you. In a world where visual misinformation is becoming more prevalent, developing a critical eye for photos is crucial. 

Why do people fake photos? Some like pranks, jokes and scams. Others want to promote a certain agenda and manipulate readers to accept photos as evidence. You might have seen examples of photos intended to mislead. A fake Aleppo skyline circulated on social media during the conflict in Syria in 2014, showing a vibrant city skyline and a devastated landscape afterwards. However, it was later revealed that the “after” image was heavily manipulated. Another case was the US capitol riot. After the 6 January 2021 attack, conspiracy theorists attempted to spread a narrative that the rioters were not actually supporters of then-President Trump, but Antifa activists. The claims were debunked by fact-checkers who confirmed the identities of the individuals in the photos and their connections to farright ideologies. So, how to distinguish authenticity from fake - without being a tech expert? 

Use common sense. 

Check if the photo violates any physics laws or known facts, become an eye-witness! Alleys in Stone Town are narrow and have no room for such a tree house. Look at company signs and writings on the wall to identify where you are. 

Blurred is bad.

Pay attention to details such as unusual shadows and reflections. Many fake pictures end up with distorted surfaces, blurred faces (like the boy in the Stone Town picture) and wrong body parts such as a short or twisted arm. If something seems oddly out of place or proportion, or details seem fuzzy, it gives away a fake photo. 

Act like a media professional.

Editors rigorously verify the source of a photo. They ensure that the image comes from a reputable and reliable source, sometimes cross-referencing the image with news agencies, official websites, and – very importantly – their own reporters’ or credible eyewitness accounts. If the photo appears on multiple reliable sources, it adds to its credibility. 

Check the metadata.

Photos often contain embedded metadata, information about the camera used, date and time of capture. Discrepancies should raise red flags! 

Use tech tools.

If you’re uncertain about the authenticity of an image, consider performing a reverse image search using online tools or search engines. 

How real are AI photos?

Photos generated by artificial intelligence (AI) are not inherently fake photos in the traditional sense. They are not photoshop versions of real images but entirely new creations. The authenticity of an AI-generated photo depends on how it’s presented and used. If the intention is to depict a fictional scenario or artwork, it’s not necessarily “fake” in the sense of misrepresentation. But if an AIgenerated image is presented as evidence of a real event or as a factual representation, then its authenticity comes into question. It therefore becomes increasingly important to disclose when an image is computer generated, media experts advise.

LET THE SUNSHINE IN

A German couple, one of the first buyers of a beach front house in Fumba Town, wants to start a solar business here. Engineer Ronny Paul, 44, produces custom made solar systems. 

There seems to be good news on the solar front: a first photovoltaic project is planned for Bambi in the heart of the island. That would be indeed good news. One wonders actually why solar in Africa has been taking so long. 

You don’t want to wait, so you are planning your own solar system? 

I am planning a show unit with wind and solar energy for private houses, so that other owners can actually see what is possible. I sell solar systems in Germany, now I want to offer the same for any house type and size in Fumba Town. 

What are the costs?

It depends on consumption and unit size. 

Let’s say for a three-bedroom..

If you use an average of 10,000 kilowatt hours per year; your electricity costs in Zanzibar are about $120 per month. 

How much do I need to invest to go solar?

A relatively large solar system costs about $12,000; for a smaller house a system of $3000 - $5000 can be sufficient. In both cases, in ten years your investment will have paid off! 

What’s the most important first step to a solar future? Preferably electricity companies open their grid for the alternative energy. Then your house system can switch automatically between grid and solar. You can even monitor your consumption with smart home devices from abroad. 

And a system with batteries?

With the latest storage technology it makes sense, and you are completely self-sufficient. We will bring the latest equipment from Germany to start installing this year. 

And wind energy?

Very small wind turbines can be installed in the garden. 

Like in yours next to the sea..

Yes, we will try that. 

How do you like living in Fumba?

We come here around four times per year. Initially we planned the house as an investment and have built a pool in only four months. 

Christine: Now we really like it here, it’s less stressful and a wonderful holiday spot

Ronny's solar business

WhatsApp +49 176 63864966

Art, jazz & wine

A new monthly show unites art and music at Stone Town’s historic city beach restaurant Livingstone’s. Wondering where the action is in Stone Town? Head to the Livingstone’s 

Beach Restaurant every last Friday of the month. Long-time Zanzibar residents Leslie Gueno and Sara Hemed are bringing new spark to the former British consulate with their expertly curated blend of art, music and top wines. “With the upscale monthly events we want to celebrate the island’s rich artistic tapestry and network with the creative community”, interior designer and photographer Hemed said. Livingstone, with its puristic bar and beautiful beach garden, has been a long-time supporter of the local cultural scene. Proprietor Abeid Karume staged the well-known and VIP-attended Jahazi Literary and Jazz Festival from 2011 to 2019. 

The new monthly art soirees, reviving the Jahazi spirit, kicked off with Wakorofi Jazz Trio and Stone Town RockerZ. A mini Jahazi literary and jazz weekend was set for 1 and 2 September. “As artists ourselves, we realised the island needs a platform to showcase talents” explains Leslie Gueno, a poet and visual artist. For the coming months, the dynamic duo intends to stage a photography exhibition and a fashion pop-up alongside the music and art events, definitely a new cultural highlight. 

Livingston‘s Beach Restaurant

every last Friday of the month