Mei 24, 2021
Dakika 4. Soma

saa 48 Bagamoyo

Imeandikwa na Rudolf Blauth

Kutoka urithi wa ukoloni hadi maficho ya sanaa: Pwani ya Bagamoyo inafaa kutembelewa.

There is love at first sight and love at second sight. When you fall in love with Bagamoyo, it’s mostly the latter. For first-time visitors, it is not uncommon to walk across the dusty roads of the coastal town and mumble disappointedly about ‘crumbling old houses from a bygone area…” But in 48 hours, and with a knowledgeable guide, you will easily conquer the heart and spirit of Bagamoyo.

My friend Nkwabi, 66, has lived here for 40 years. Originally from Mwanza, Nkwabi is the leading actor in a popular TV series; almost everyone in Bagamoyo knows him. He completed a degree in pantomime in Sweden, and his three daughters Misoji, Nshoma and Sami took 1st, 2nd and 3rd place in a national talent show called “Bongo Star Search Competition”. Nkwabi laughingly confirms my impression that you have to spend at least two days in Bagamoyo to “lay your heart down” in the historic city. 

Ananiambia jina la jiji hilo lilianza wakati misafara ya wavumbuzi na wafanyabiashara wakitoka hapa kuelekea Ziwa Tanganyika na wapagazi walilazimika kuacha familia zao ufukweni kwa miezi mingi wakiwa na moyo mzito. Watumwa walioletwa kutoka pande zote pia waliacha "mioyo yao nyuma" huko Bagamoyo: Walihamishwa bila kubatilishwa hadi kwenye soko la watumwa huko Zanzibar usiku wakiwa na jahazi.

Leo Kanisa la Old Caravanserai na Makumbusho ya Misheni ya Kikatoliki huko Bagamoyo yanatoa ushuhuda wa wakati huu wa giza. Watumwa waliokombolewa walisaidia Bagamoyo kupata kutambuliwa kwa upapa kama mahali pa hija kwa kujenga grotto takatifu kwenye eneo la misheni.

Siku ya 1: Kutembea katika siku za nyuma

Kutembea kwenye Barabara nyembamba ya India ni kama kurudi nyuma. Lakini bila mwongozo, wageni hawataelewa thamani ya kitamaduni ya mji wa pwani ulio kilomita 60 kaskazini mwa Dar es Salaam. Kulingana na wataalamu wa kimataifa, Bagamoyo iko sawa na Lamu, Mombasa, Kilwa na Zanzibar kwa umuhimu wa kihistoria. Mji huo wenye wakazi karibu 50,000 bado ni mji wenye usingizi, ujenzi uliopangwa kwa muda mrefu wa bandari kubwa ya kontena umesitishwa kwa sasa. Lakini barabara mpya ya ardhini kuelekea Pangani, Tanga na Mombasa nchini Kenya kwa hakika itaiondoa Bagamoyo katika hali yake ya upweke, ujenzi utaanza mwaka huu. Hakuna mji mwingine katika Afrika Mashariki wenye ushuhuda wa Uislamu na wa wamisionari wa Kikristo, ushawishi wa Waajemi na Waarabu, ukumbusho wa utumwa, wa wavumbuzi wa Kizungu kama vile Livingstone, Speke au Burton na athari za ukoloni wa Wajerumani na Waingereza. kujilimbikiza kwa kuonekana kama huko Bagamoyo.

Abdallah Ulimwengu is one of the few qualified city guides in Bagamoyo. He needs at least three hours only for the almost one kilometre long section of India Street from the Old German Fort to the Old German School. The Old German Boma and the first German Post Office in East Africa are right here. Abdallah makes short, worthwhile detours such as to the German Colonial Cemetery, the national monument “Hanging Tree”, a small dhow shipyard or the fish market, which awakens to an incomparably lively and colourful life every day when the dhow fishermen arrive.

Mimi na Abdallah, Nkwabi tunapumzika kidogo kwenye Mgahawa wa “Poa Poa”. Pamoja na ua wake maridadi wa ndani, pizza, vyakula vya kari na samaki wa kukaanga ni mahali pazuri pa kutukaribisha. Vinywaji vya maziwa vitamu hutuburudisha kwa safari ya kuendelea na a bajaji  – as tuk-tuks are called her – to the Bagamoyo College of Arts.

Siku ya 2: Sanaa na pwani

Sio bila sababu kwamba Bagamoyo inaitwa "nyumba ya sanaa na historia". Chuo cha Sanaa (TaSUBa) kilichopo pembezoni kusini mwa katikati ya mji, ambako rafiki yangu Nkwabi alifanya kazi kama mhadhiri wa maigizo, kuna jumba kubwa zaidi la maonyesho Afrika Mashariki lenye viti 2000. Kundi lao, Wachezaji wa Bagamoyo, wametamba duniani kote katika miongo michache iliyopita. Tamasha la Kimataifa la Sanaa la Bagamoyo, linalofanyika kila mwaka, mwezi Oktoba/Novemba, linachukuliwa kuwa tamasha muhimu zaidi Tanzania Bara. Chuo kinapatikana kwa ziara au kwa warsha ndogo za muziki na ngoma kwa mpangilio wa awali.

Mchana naamua kujipumzisha ufukweni kwenye ghuba kubwa ya Bagamoyo. Kuogelea ni bora kusini mwa Chuo cha Sanaa au kuelekea mwisho wa kaskazini wa ufuo karibu na Traveller's Lodge. Hoteli nyingi ziko hapa. 

Before I say goodbye to Nkwabi, his musical daughters and Abdullah after two days, I take the time and let myself drift through the town again without a guide. And it’s worth it: Bagamoyo has not lost its charm as the home of fishermen, traders and funders to this day.

Mwandishi Rudolf Blauth, 67, ametembelea Bagamoyo zaidi ya mara 30. Ni mwenyekiti wa Jumuiya ya Urafiki ya Bagamoyo/Ujerumani, iliyoanzishwa mwaka 1992.

SANDUKU(BOX)

Kuchunguza Bagamoyo

Jinsi ya kufika huko:

Kutoka Dar es Salaam, usafiri wa saa 1-3 wa gari (mmakupa@yahoo.com). Safari ya ndege ya kukodi kwa kutumia kivuko cha Pwani au cha kukodi kutoka Zanzibar hadi Bagamoyo (inapendeza hasa kwa vikundi: info@fireflybagamoyo.com).

Malazi:

Traveler’s Lodge (on the beach, large botanical palm garden), Fire Fly (in the village with pool), Ella’s Swahili House (Swahili-style holiday home in the village for max. 9 people)

Miongozo/Bookings:

Abdallah Ulimwengu: batrentz@yahoo.com (anaweza pia kuhifadhi baiskeli na Bajaji mapema). Chuo cha Sanaa TaSUBa: http://tasuba.ac.tz

Tukio: 39th International Bagamoyo Arts Festival, 25 – 30 October 2021

Taarifa:

Gundua vituko vya Bagamoyo, orodha kamili ya hoteli na habari kwenye tovuti muhimu sana ya Jumuiya ya Urafiki ya Bagamoyo e.V. NGO inaunga mkono miradi ya kitamaduni na kijamii tangu karibu miaka 30. www.bagamoyo.com

Kununua samaki wapya waliovuliwa sokoni

Shiriki hii

Makala zinazohusiana-Related Articles

Machi 31, 2021
3 dakika.

Two Fumbas – One Idea

Find out all about new exciting seaside developments just outside Zanzibar city It’s all happening on the Fumba peninsula: Two major real estate developments creating modern living space with holiday flats and permanent family homes near the overcrowded capital. By ANDREA TAPPER Both aspiring seaside communities, started in 2015/16, fascinate locals as well as a […]
Soma zaidi
Januari 23, 2024
2 dakika.

DINNER FOR ONE

A new hospitality school in Zanzibar trains local youth for jobs in the tourist industry. We tested it.  Does the glass stand to the right of the plate, or the left? Can VIPs register in their room instead of at the reception? What is cereal? Tumaini Kiwenge is one of five teachers at a new […]
Soma zaidi
Januari 8, 2024
Dakika 1.

SMART ARCHITECTURE WINS

Zanzibar is famous for historic Stone Town. But now the island’s modern architecture starts gaining international recognition, too.  The white modern living style of Fumba Town based on green principles has won a prestigious award in Dubai recently. CPS Africa, who started the unique island development in 2015, received the ‘Residential Development 20+’ award by […]
Soma zaidi
Oktoba 23, 2023
2 dakika.

The unknown side of Zanzibar

Location Most secluded in Zanzibar, The Bottom Line Feel like a VIP by the ocean The road maybe rocky, but the destination rewards us for travelling it. Like a Fata Morgana, white modern villas suddenly become visible high above the sea, a wooden deck with neatly arranged cabana-like double sun beds leads to an endless […]
Soma zaidi

Je, unatafuta mali Zanzibar?

25 essential questions and answers to buy property in Zanzibar

READ MORE
Whatsapp Nasi